Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

Our first stop on the trip is Norman Island, where we will anchor for the night at The Bight.

Norman Island is famed for its tales of buried treasure, but the caves off Treasure Point offer a different type of booty for snorkelers. Norman Island has been made famous from the 1883 classic story “Treasure Island” which was written by Robert Louis Stevenson.

A short ride from the Bight, we plan to pick up a National Parks mooring in the morning and snorkel our way over to The Caves.

This is a spectacular snorkeling adventure, with thousands of orange cup coral and red sponge covering the cave walls. The island is equipped with three caves – two large ones and a small one.

Schools of friendly yellow tails, blue tangs and sergeant majors will follow you into the caves

On the entrance into the larger cave in the cent photo above, the walls are covered with cup corals and sea urchins abound just below…

A few years ago, we entered the second of the caves you see above to discover we could swim right through it and come out just about where you see that sandy beach by the yacht at the top of the photo. Bring a flashlight to truly experience the Caves, which shimmer with a pastel coating of orange cup coral and red covering sponge.

A fun way to spend a couple of hours.

Tucked into the northern corner of the bay on the western side of Great Dog, The Chimney is really two sites in one.

Directly below the moorings, in 30 to 40 feet of calm protected water, are several massive coral heads rising up from a sand and rubble bottom. This is called the Fish Bowl, so named because of the many friendly fishes abiding here. The yellowtails, sergeant majors, parrotfishes and other fishes have been fed by so many divers that they are conditioned to the sound of Velcro. Open a BC pocket, and zoom, you’ll be surrounded by a mass of finny mouths all looking for a handout.

To find the Chimney we pass through the Fish Bowl and head towards the northern shore of the bay. On this dive make sure to take the time to explore the several canyons and ridges that run parallel to shore. Work your way around the point.

At a depth of around 45 feet or so, cut back and follow a canyon back towards shore. This should lead you under a large beautifully encrusted archway encrusted with cup corals and brightly colored sponges. Once through the arch you’ll enter a steep-walled narrow corridor which ends with two huge rocks almost touching. The narrow slot between these two boulders is The Chimney, so named because of its resemblance to a rock-climbing formation of the same name. Before exiting through the slot take the time to look around at all the marine life on the walls. A dive light will reveal all the brilliant hues and hidden creatures-little shrimp, spotted rock lobster, anemones and a rainbow of sponges. The unusual white sponges adorning the walls resemble wads of chewing gum. If The Chimney slot looks too narrow for you, it is possible to swim out over the top of it. Once through the Chimney there are a couple of canyons along the cliff face worth exploring as you work your way back through the Fish Bowl to your mooring.

There are lots of less visited canyons and rock formations also hidden here. You can also explore the base of the cliff further back into the bay. The bottom is covered with stones rubbed round and smooth from years of rolling in the winter surge. Among these stones is a wealth of tiny marine creatures such as brittle stars, baby flame scallops and an occasional Scorpionfish. This is also an excellent place to snorkel.

Swimming with humpback whales in their natural environment, on their terms, during a Soft-In-Water Encounter, is an ultimate wild animal interaction and spending a week in this exceptional sanctuary is a journey unlike any other.

Reserve your spot now on our website at www.oceansedge.com.

This trip is scheduled for February 16 – February 23, 2013.

We are convinced that this trip will be one of the highlights of every guests lifetime. Swimming with humpback whales in their natural environment, on their terms, during a Soft-In-Water Encounter, is an ultimate wild animal interaction and spending a week in this exceptional sanctuary is a journey unlike any other. Visitors arriving on the Silver Bank quickly realize they are in one of the truly special wild places on earth, a feeling that only deepens as the days pass. The humpback whale behaviors you witness from above and the face to face experiences you have with them will leave you feeling joy, awe, humility, gratitude, and respect.

While visitors to the Silver Bank are often surprised by the number of humpback whales and are thrilled by the variety of surface behavior on display, what draws most people is the opportunity to enter the whale’s watery world to encounter them on a more personal level, an activity commonly referred to as swimming with whales. Yim and I call it ‘Swimming with Giants’.

The Silver Bank is part of the much larger Sanctuary for the Marine Mammals of the Dominican Republic. This Sanctuary is one of the few places where people are permitted to enter the water with cetaceans. As a Sanctuary, all activities within its bounds are subject to regulation, and there are very specific regulations that apply to the activity of swimming with the whales as well. These regulations serve several purposes. They protect the whales from harassment, and they also happen to provide the best possible chance of a lasting and meaningful encounter.

Each trip is a week-long liveaboard cruise that boards on Saturday afternoon and disembarks the following Saturday morning. The daily schedule is designed to maximize the time available for tender-based and soft-in-water whale encounters.

The Broken Islands Group is a group of small islands and islets in the middle of Barkley Sound on the West Coast of Vancouver Island. The group is protected as the Broken Islands Group Unit of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, which includes Long Beach, between Ucluelet and Tofino to Barkley Sound’s northwest, and the West Coast Trail between Port Renfrew and Bamfield, which is to the southeast.

We visited a while back and took a zodiac through the Broken Islands from Ucluelet and were thrilled to come face-to-face with a large group of Stellar Sea Lions (Twice).

The male, or bull, Stellar Sea Lion is a huge animal, growing up to three metres in length and weighing up to 900 kilograms.

In contrast, the females are only about a third as large, and give birth to one pup after a gestation period of one year.

There are three Stellar Sea Lion breeding rookeries in British Columbia, and many haul-out sites located throughout coastal B.C. A prominent local haul-out site is at Race Rocks, off the Western Communities of Greater Victoria.

The Steller sea lion, also known as the northern sea lion, is a threatened species of in the northern Pacific. It is the sole member of the genus Eumetopias and the largest of the eared Seal (Otariidae). Among Pinnipeds, it is inferior in size only to the Walrus and the two Elephant Seals. The Steller sea lion has attracted considerable attention in recent decades due to significant, unexplained declines in their numbers over a large portion of their range.

It is a thrill to get up close to these incredible mammals so comfortable in and around the water.

The journey along the north shore of Kauai ends at one of the most popular beaches on Kaua‘i – Ke‘e Beach. The beach marks the end of Highway 560 and the portion of Kaua‘i that can be seen by car.

From here on in, the rest of north Kaua‘i is occupied by the Na Pali Coast, a series of rugged seaside cliffs stretching along the northwest shore that is not navigable by vehicle. Parking is available on either side of the road and near the coast.

One of the most striking aspects of this beach is its breathtaking view of the Na Pali Coast, which begins here. When you are facing the ocean, Na Pali can be glimpsed to your left.

The best time for photographs is early morning (on a clear day) or right at sunset.

At the far end of the beach on the Na Pali side is a trail that winds through the jungle to an ancient Hawaiian heiau (temple), Ka-ulu-Paoa Heiau. This heiau has been used as a hula school for over 1,000 years.

Public rest rooms and showers are available at the beach. And though of no real value, the wild Kaua‘i chickens that roost around the beach are entertaining to watch. How often do you see a chicken on the beach?

The famous Kalalau Trail also begins at Ke‘e Beach.

Loggerheads are amazing… highly migratory and particularly vulnerable to accidental capture in the nets and long-lines of the world’s fisheries. Although Turtle Excluder Devices (TED), fitted into shrimp nets in some countries have lessened the threat, the use of these devices is not yet mandatory everywhere. Longline by catch mitigation trials are also being conducted in several places across the world, but will they be in time to halt the decline? Their present population is 60,000 + nesting females.

I have had the pleasure of spending a fair amount of time with Loggerhead Turtles off the coast of Belize from 1999 – 2003. At certain times of the year, they were fairly present along the outer edge of the barrier reef.

On several occasions, I could watch them rising from the depths along the edge of the reef until they were quite literally right beside me. On more than one occasion, they would spot a crab nearby and make a meal of one, seemingly oblivious to my presence. One I saw so often that I named him Seven Barnacles for the seven large barnacles he carried with him (see photo at right). On more than one occasion, I attempted to swim alongside them until they seemed to realize I was there and with a few powerful fin sweeps, would leave me breathing far too heavy 60 feet under the water.

On one particular dive, it became quite apparent how poor their visibility was when one large Loggerhead swam straight towards myself and a student until it was literally so close that I had to reach out and place my two arms on the shell and push it away for fear that it was simply going to swim directly into the student I was teaching.

Physical Description

The loggerhead turtle has a rusty coloured carapace. It is one of the largest turtles, weighing about 155 kg and carries more encrusting organisms such as barnacles on its shell than the other marine turtle species. This species is distinguished mainly by its large head and strong jaws. As with leatherbacks, loggerheads are highly migratory, making some of the longest journeys known of all marine turtle species. The possibility that juvenile loggerheads cross the Pacific Ocean has been corroborated by studies showing Baja Californian loggerheads have a genetic affinity with those found in Japan, and recently the first trans-Pacific migration of a loggerhead was recorded with a satellite transmitter. It is thought that an ability to detect wave direction and the Earth’s magnetic field enables this species to navigate across open oceans.

Nesting Range States

Angola, Australia, Bahamas, Bangladesh, Belize, Brazil, Cape Verde, most of the Caribbean, China, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Cyprus, Egypt, Greece, Guatemala, Honduras, India, Indonesia, Israel, Italy, Jamaica, Japan, Libya, Madagascar, Mexico, Morocco, Mozambique, Namibia, New Caledonia, Nicaragua, Oman, Panama, Philippines, Senegal, South Africa, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Turks and Caicos Islands, USA, Venezuela, British Virgin Islands.

Why is this species important?

Marine turtles fulfill important roles in marine ecosystems. Loggerhead turtles eat many types of invertebrates, in particular molluscs and crustaceans, and can change the seabed by “mining” the sediments for their favourite prey. Also, loggerhead turtles carry veritable animal and plant cities on their shell. You can see from my photos just why I named one of these turtles Seven Barnacles. As many as 100 species of animals and plants have been recorded living on one single loggerhead turtle. These animals and plants depend on turtles to have somewhere to live and to prosper.

The future for many of these species is intimately linked to our care of the oceans.

It is with sincere regret that I must write this article regarding what was at one point in my life, my favorite place to dive in the world- Moho Caye in Belize.

An article I wrote several years ago describes what is what like to visit Moho in the late 1990′s and early into the 21st century;

Moho Caye

“One of my other favorite spots in Belize was Moho Caye. It is a simple dive but there is a large coral pinnacle that starts in about 85 – 100 feet and makes it way up to within 20 feet of the surface and there are a large variety of critters to watch for while you circle this pinnacle.

The nice thing about this site is that you can end your dive in fifteen feet of water and still be seeing lots of marine life, like anemones and feathered sea cucumbers.

There are numerous ways to dive Moho Caye. I considered the starting point just off to the left of the small spot of sandy beach you can see in center of the right photo. From there, you could head south towards the pinnacle or north, towards a more sandy bottom and round the tip at the northern-most point. where the reef forms a sort of mini wall… quite steep with an eighty foot maximum bottom depth.

You can see from the photo at right how much shallow area there is surrounding the island. Its hard to pinpoint it from here, but if you were to begin your dive approximately halfway on the top middle side of this photo and swim left, you would find the pinnacle I am referring to. If you really want to find it, I recommend finding a woman named Lloydia in Placencia Village (its not hard. Ask anyone in the center of town) and go with her. She loves this spot.

In March, if you are around visit the east side of the island where the Pelicans roost and build their nest. Its fun to wander the island at that time… you can literally walk up to the nest with albino white baby pelicans squawking away.

I can honestly say that this is one of the nicest dive spots I have ever spent time at. No matter how often I visited, I always enjoyed myself. Yim and I used to take one of the boats out on our off days”

Imagine what they are doing with their sewage now… this Island is small. I could walk across it in fifteen minutes even hacking my way through the very middle of the Island. And of course, the next hurricane that passes through the area will wipe the place out but the Island will never be the same.

Sigh…

This year we finally visited Kauai… Wow !

After much reading, we chose to stay along the North Shore and to visit in July. The North Shore town of Haena sounded perfect to us and the books we read all said it rained considerably in the winter so we chose July and rented a small cottage about a five minute walk to Haena Point.

One of the few life guarded beaches on the North shore, Haena beach park apparently offers good swimming when the ocean is calm. That was never the case while we were visiting… the waves were steady and a lot of fun for me but not so much fun for Yim, who is not as comfortable in the water as I am but I had a ball walking straight in to five and six foot waves and having them hurl me up on the beach and body surfing on a small boogie board.

The beach break can often be temperamental, and many tourists find themselves walking 15 minutes up the beach to the section know as Tunnels, an area offering excellent snorkeling.

Tunnels Beach, located on Haena Point on Kauai’s north shore, is a postcard-perfect, two-mile (3.2 km) stretch of golden sand fringed with ironwood trees and tropical palms. Tunnels Beach is one of the north shore’s most popular beaches.

One of the main attractions is the large reef offshore. The beach is unique for having an inner and an outer reef. About an eighth of a mile offshore is a half-moon shaped reef. Within this, lies the inner reef.  This area is ideal for families with kids and novice snorkelers, while advanced divers and snorkelers can enjoy and explore the outer reef, which has lava tubes, arches and coral formations. Apparently, during the winter months or times of high surf, the water conditions are hazardous at Tunnels Beach and swimming and snorkeling are very dangerous, but since we visited in July, conditions were very calm and enjoyable.

The journey further along the north shore of Kauai ends at one of the most popular beaches on Kaua‘i – Ke‘e Beach. The beach marks the end of Highway 560 and the portion of Kaua‘i that can be seen by car. More than likely, the beach should be renamed ‘Beach of Extremely Rare Parking Spots’… We visited a couple of times but were not impressed. There were too many people and too many of the irritating roosters and chickens that populate the island everywhere you go, buy K’ee Beach was particularly annoying, so we visited oncem came back to watch the sunset you see above and concentrated on the less popular sopts which dot the entire island.

One of the most striking aspects of this beach is its breathtaking view of the Na Pali Coast, which begins here. When you are facing the ocean, Na Pali can be glimpsed to your left. The best time for photographs is early morning (on a clear day) or right at sunset.

From here on in, the rest of north Kaua‘i is occupied by the Na Pali Coast, a series of rugged seaside cliffs stretching along the northwest shore that is not navigable by vehicle.

Just 17 kilometers from downtown Victoria, Goldstream Provincial Park lies amid the splendour of a spectacular old-growth temperate rain forest.

Besides being a beautiful day trip within a short distance from downtown Victoria, from October through December you can see a world class salmon-spawning stream with thousands of Salmon returning. And quite literally, within arm’s length. During this period of the year, the Goldstream River is the scene of one of nature’s spectacles as chum, coho and chinook salmon enter the river via Finlayson Arm from the Pacific Ocean. Three to four years previously, these same salmon were born here before traveling to the sea to grow and mature. Their return to spawn and die in their ancestral spawning beds is fascinating.

It doesn’t stop there. During this amazing time of year you can visit the park and it’s always-changing Visitor Centre. The centre is named after Freeman King, an early naturalist who probably reached more children than any other naturalist on Vancouver Island. The centre is at the mouth of the river, overlooking the Goldstream estuary, nestled among giant black cottonwoods and red alder trees.

If you are ever in Victoria and have a couple of hours to enjoy something wonderful, visit Goldstream Park.

While driving home from my sister’s wedding in northern California in 2008, we stopped at a place we had stopped in at several years earlier while on our road trip from Vancouver Island to Belize… Ruby Beach, and found it just as mystical as the first time we visited.

A short quarter mile hike opens up to a beautiful vista with a river flowing in from above, which is where the photo here was taken.

Both times we have visited, the fog has been thick and created an eerie but mystical feeling of wandering along the beach where large rock outcroppings rise out of the water just feet from shore.

For anyone visiting the area, we recommend a visit for an hour or two.